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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.